Tar Heel Travels

Visiting the Old Dominion

In July I wandered north to Virginia to visit friends, play some golf, go sightseeing, relive a bit of history and enjoy the culture and heritage of the Old Dominion. The trip took me from Wintergreen to Williamsburg, from the majestic mountains in the west to the classic restored colonial capital in the southeast.

Wintergreen, a 10,000-acre resort and residential area that sits high in the Blue Ridge Mountains, is one of the South's premier skiing areas. In the summer it's a scenic hub for a variety of outdoor activities that include golf, tennis, hiking, cycling, fishing, boating and horseback riding.

The Blue Ridge Parkway is less than a mile from Wintergreen's main entrance, offering fabulous panoramic views of the lush, fertile Shenandoah Valley below. Charlottesville, Staunton and Lexington are must-visit towns that are nearby.

The valley was unusually warm because of the heat wave, but cool breezes wafted through the ridges dotted with attractive homes and condos hidden among the trees. Visitors at the mountain-top resort and other guests were going in and out of a number of fine shops or dining at The Copper Mine restaurant.

The late Ellis Maples of Pinehurst designed Devils Knob, Wintergreen's first golf course, and created a jewel in the process. Scenic and challenging, the course traverses through a heavily forested route until it reaches the mountain top, offering spectacular views along the way.

Down in the valley, in the shadow of the mountain range, Rees Jones designed Stoney Creek, a 27-hole layout that ranks as one of Virginia's best courses. Like a trophy wife, the course is beautiful but demanding, and it can't be taken for granted. Both courses are thoroughly enjoyable.

Leaving Wintergreen, we drove to Charlottesville in a trip that's all too short as the scenery increases in beauty with every mile. The rolling hills, white fences, open pastures, handsome horses and stately mansions evoke memories of Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, Lady Astor and the many colorful figures in Virginia's proud past.

A walking tour of the University of Virginia campus, as charming and dignified as any you will ever see, strengthens the nostalgia of the Jefferson era. Like his beloved Monticello, a short drive from campus, the university was a creation he prized.

From Charlottesville to Williamsburg is a casual, relaxing and picturesque trip on Interstate 64 that takes less than two hours. Devoid of any commercial development, this route is perhaps the prettiest of any interstate highway. Travelers may detour through Richmond if a visit to that great city is on the agenda.

It's always a thrill to visit Colonial Williamsburg, even through my association goes back to World War II when I went through boot camp at Camp Peary, a stone's throw from the historic town that was authentically restored by John D. Rockefeller in 1932. Camp Peary, incidentally, is still in existence although now it's a hush-hush CIA facility off-limits to visitors.

My visits and leisurely strolls around the 130-acre Williamsburg complex usually center around the same things the many visitors do: marvel at the classic homes and buildings; visit the Governor's Palace, the Bruton Parish Church, the three museums, walk along Duke of Gloucester Street and know that George Washington, Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson were there before me.

And if I thought the University of Virginia reeked with history, my walks through the William and Mary campus, which dates to 1693, are even more reminiscent of our 17th and 18th century heritage.

Fine dining awaits at Chowning's or Christiana Campbell's and there are fascinating side trips to Carter's Grove and Yorktown. Finding interesting things to see and do is not a problem in Colonial Williamsburg.

But this visit was to accomplish two things: experience a stay at the renowned Williamsburg Inn, one of the nation's finest hostelries, and to play golf at the Golden Horseshoe, which also ranks with the best in the country.

The Williamsburg Inn is a luxurious four-star, four-diamond hotel that represents the best in hospitality, accommodations, food and service.

The rooms are large and comfortable, tastefully decorated and well-attended by maids and room service personnel, and cuisine in the elegant Regency Dining Room is a gourmet experience too delightful for a layman to describe.

Handsome and dignified, the inn opened in 1937 and has housed numerous celebrities, including Winston Churchill, President Eisenhower, President Reagan, Margaret Thatcher, Bill Cosby, Tom Selleck and countless others.

Adjoining the inn is the Gold Course, which architect Robert Trent Jones says is his finest, and I won't argue. It is a truly outstanding golf course with rare beauty and 18 varied challenges for players of all caliber. It opened for play in 1963.

Alongside Jones' masterpiece, which went through an extensive renovation program in 1998, is the Green course, designed by his son, Rees Jones, and a great addition to the Williamsburg facilities. There is also a nine-hole executive course, the Spotswood, a sporty layout that plays to a par of 31.

History, golf, fine dining, great accommodations. It's all in Williamsburg, a travel destination that ranks in everyone's ten.