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Fall Getaways

Best Trips to the Mountains, Piedmont and Coast

By Bill F. Hensley

October has always been my favorite month. It's a time for cider, football, hunting and taking long walks, kicking up leaves as I go.

It's a colorful period when our state springs alive with brilliant red and gold splashes from the mountains to the coast. The awe-inspiring display that Mother Nature puts forth cannot be erased easily once you have seen the fall color parade in all its splendor.

The weather seems just right, too, with a nip in the morning air; bright sunny rays that cast shadows throughout the day; crisp, falling leaves that cover the ground; a warming fire in the evening and cuddling up under a blanket for a good night's sleep. And summer clothes — khakis and short-sleeved shirts — give way to sweaters and corduroy slacks.

What's more, except for the stream of “leaf peepers” who permeate our environs, traffic is more normal than in summer, except of course, on the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, which is the perfect place to view the majestic and colorful terrain that lies all around. But I have learned to share the glory of North Carolina with others and to take pride in what they see.

October, then, is an ideal time to travel and to see, enjoy and appreciate a unique and beautiful state that the pilgrims who first discovered this place called “the goodliest land under the cope of heaven.” How right they were!

As an enthusiastic traveler, especially in the Tar Heel State, I like to combine two of my favorite pastimes — sightseeing and golf — when October rolls around. Friends will tell you that I'm far better at the former, since my athletic skills are somewhat limited, but nothing could be more enjoyable than chasing a little white ball over lush green fairways at any time of the year, especially in our most colorful month.

If time and money were not a problem, a somewhat ridiculous but necessary comment, each October I would tour the state from Manteo to Murphy (and a lot of places in between) and renew my love for some favorite places while discovering a lot of new ones.

So I invite you to come along for the ride to:

The mountains

Where to begin a long, circuitous journey is always a problem, but since I live in Charlotte, I will start from there.

The first leg is to the southwest corner of the state to Cashiers, a three-and-a-half-hour drive that puts me in North Carolina's “waterfall country.” This Jackson County locale, along with neighboring Highlands in Macon County, is one of the South's most popular summer vacation destinations for the wise travelers from Florida, Georgia, South Carolina and Alabama, yet it is little-known to the homefolks except for a handful who wouldn't go anywhere else. You can buy an Atlanta, Miami or Columbia newspaper in the area, but you can't buy a paper from North Carolina, if that tells you something.

Tar Heel residents are missing a delightful place (they say it's too far), because this is a spectacular area of rare natural beauty. There are sparkling waterfalls and streams throughout the area and scenery that is breath-taking.

I can recommend staying at the historic, popular High Hampton Inn and hold hour-long chats with owner W. D. McKee, or at the Millstone Inn, or Tim Lovelace's Greystone Inn, or renting a log cabin. Golf would be at High Hampton, Sapphire Mountain, or Trillium, a new course that opened recently that was designed by former PGA touring pro Morris Hatalsky.

It's just a short drive to Waynesville, and I would time the trip so that I could enjoy a family-style meal at the Jarrett House in Dillsboro, famous for its fried chicken and fresh vegetables.

In Haywood County, I would stay at Cataloochee Ranch, a special favorite that I have been coming to for nearly 40 years. This family-oriented “dude ranch” is the South's oldest and best-known and renowned for its hospitality, cuisine and warm atmosphere. Here you can ride horses over picturesque trails, and play golf at the Waynesville Country Club, Maggie Valley Country Club or at Springdale in Canton, a fine layout that presents challenges with every shot.

Onward to Asheville, my old hometown. The famed Grove Park Inn has been my stomping grounds for longer than I can remember, and each visit over the years has been memorable. If rooms were not available, I would try Richmond Hill, a country inn with a high rating and a prized reputation. It would be my first visit, though it has been high on my list for years.

In Asheville, golf would be at the inn's Donald Ross course and at Biltmore Forest Country Club, where I am a non-resident member. Biltmore Forest is a Ross classic that dates to 1922 and recently hosted the U.S. Women's Amateur championship. At mealtime I would flip a coin and head for one ofa dozen or so restaurants.

Our trip now heads for the northern mountains to the Boone, Blowing Rock, Banner Elk area. For accommodations, my choice would be the Hound Ears Club or the Eseeola Lodge in Linville, two fine resorts with great golf and food to match. When not dining at the resort, I would head for Jackalope's on Beech Mountain, the Louisiana Purchase, or the Inn at Elk River. Golf would be at two top-notch public courses, Mountain Glen in Newland and the Boone Golf Club.

Side trips would be to Grandfather Mountain and, hopefully, an encounter with owner Hugh Morton, North Carolina's top promoter whose talent with a camera has helped put our state on the travel map.

The Piedmont

The road now leads to the Triad area and a round of golf at Tanglewood, near Winston-Salem; a barbecue lunch or dinner in Lexington; an overnight stop at the swanky new Grandover Resort in Greensboro where I would play two new courses that have been well-received; and more golf at Bryan Park, a public facility that is outstanding.

Headed toward Raleigh on I-85, I would go by The Challenge in Graham and hope I could get a game with Mike Long, one of the state's most personable pros.

The Triangle Area is rich in things to see and do — strolling the campuses of great universities; staying at the Farrington House, the Carolina Inn or the Taylor House; visiting numerous interesting museums; attending football games; and playing golf at Finley (with a brand new course about to open), Hillandale, Neuse and other courses.

But for a real golfer's paradise, we must turn south to the Pinehurst/Southern Pines hub in Moore County. There are around 30 golf courses here, along with a strong emphasis upon tennis and horses. But the links rule supreme, led by the Pinehurst Country Club with eight courses, five of which start and end at the clubhouse.

Not playing the famed No. 2 course would be like going to Rome and not visiting the Vatican. Site of the recent U.S. Open, the course has been one of the nation's finest since it was created at the turn of the century. It is, in brief, Donald Ross' masterpiece and teeing it up here is an experience you will long remember.

If No. 2 is king, courses seven and eight aren't far behind. But in reality, all of the courses are enjoyable and can provide a week or more of golf thrills.

Nearby are two more Ross creations that are highly ranked, Pine Needles and Mid Pines. Both were built in the mid-1920s and were fierce competitors until several years ago when Peggy Kirk Bell and her family acquired Mid Pines to complement their jewel across Midland Road.

Stay at the Carolina Hotel or the newly-refurbished Holly Inn in Pinehurst and at Pine Needles or Mid Pines in Southern Pines. All are outstanding.

And while you are in the area, don't miss the exciting new Tobacco Road course, a half-hour to the north on US 1. Designed by Mike Strantz, the course has been called “Pine Valley on steroids” and has already been nominated for best new course of the year. This is golf like you probably haven't seen it before, and it is an exciting adventure.

The coast

It's a long haul to the Outer Banks but there are stops for barbecue all along the way, especially in Rocky Mount and Wilson. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with golf in that area, so I would put away the sticks for a few days and concentrate on food, scenery and history.

A day and night in Edenton is a must. One of my favorite towns, the accommodations — and food — at the Lords Proprietors rank with the best and has served as headquarters on two recent trips. To stroll the streets of Edenton is like living in a history book that dates to the 1700s. The place reeks with charm and dignity.

Another fine dining spot in town is the Dram Tree, just off the main drag. You will like it.

The drive from Edenton to the Outer Banks is just over an hour and crosses the massive Albemarle Sound. It's a peaceful jaunt that usually evokes thoughts of the pleasures that await in this unique land of sand and surf.

In Nags Head I like the First Colony, a distinguished and traditional inn with an ocean view. The rooms are large, comfortable, and tastefully decorated. And the hospitality is superb.

A trip to the Outer Banks wouldn't be complete, however, without a visit to the Sanderling Inn, one of the state's most highly regarded hostelries. Located in the improbable village of Duck, the Sanderling has amassed a national reputation for its high quality and excellent food and service. A stay in this luxurious inn can be the highlight of any vacation. And say hello to Christine Berger, the general manager. She runs a fascinating inn.

And it's just a stone's throw from the Currituck Club, a course I consider the best in the area. Designed by Rees Jones, the links course is reminiscent of those in Scotland and Ireland with sea oats and dunes coming into play often. There are about a half-dozen courses on the banks, enough to provide sufficient challenges and variety for golf enthusiasts.

How to start the homeward trip is always a puzzling decision. Do I take the leisurely drive down Hatteras Island and enjoy its spectacular scenery, visit the delightful village of Ocracoke and then ride the ferry to Cedar Island? By doing so, I can stop off in Morehead City and Beaufort, two places I don't want to miss.

But that route means I would have to double back to see Washington and New Bern, another dynamic duo of Southern charm that rank high on my list of favorite places. Both of those laid back waterfront towns reek with history and nostalgia and offer a variety of intriguing architecture. In New Bern, where I often enjoy walking along the river and seeing the stately homes, I can look forward to playing golf at Taberna, a new course I have heard a lot about.

This time out, I'll eat at the Sanitary Café in Morehead, walk the lovely streets of Beaufort and then head for Wilmington and Brunswick County for more golf than I can handle.

In the past decade, this area has pushed hard to become a golf mecca, and it has succeeded admirably. There are now more than 30 courses in this southeast corner of the state, including three at St. James Plantation, Sea Trail, and Ocean Ridge Plantation, and two at Angel's Trace and The Pearl.

There certainly is no shortage of good courses in Brunswick County with such attractive layouts as Magnolia Greens, Carolina National, Oak Island and dozens of others on the scene.

And the state's best-kept secret is the George Cobb classic on Bald Head Island. A ferry takes you to this secluded barrier island and there are enough activities—cycling, fishing, hiking, tennis, swimming and shell searching—to keep you busy for days. There are rental cottages and condos available and two convenient bed and breakfast inns.

In Southport, eat at the Yacht Basin Provision Co. where you will find the seafood is delicious and the atmosphere friendly. A number of local restaurants stand out: Sandfiddler, Ship's Chandler and the Sea Captain. Or you can catch a seafood dinner yourself by chartering a boat along the waterfront for a day in the surf.

For more travel and tourism information on destinations in the mountains mentioned in this article, call:
Alleghany County Chamber of Commerce, 910-372-5473
Asheville Area Chamber of Commerce, 828-258-6101
Avery/Banner Elk Chamber of Commerce, 828-898-5605
Boone Area Chamber of Commerce, 828-264-2225
Haywood County Chamber of Commerce, 828-456-3021
Mitchell County Chamber of Commerce, 828-765-9483

For more travel and tourism information on Piedmont destinations mentioned, call:
Alamance County Chamber of Commerce, 336-228-1338
Chapel Hill-Carrboro Chamber of Commerce, 919-967-7075
Clayton Chamber of Commerce, 919-553-6352
Greensboro Area Chamber of Commerce, 336-275-8675
Greater Winston-Salem Chamber of Commerce, 336-725-2361
Greater Raleigh Chamber of Commerce, 919-664-7000
Sandhills Area Chamber of Commerce, 910-692-3926
Sanford Area Chamber of Commerce, 919-775-7341

For more travel and tourism information on coastal destinations mentioned, call:
Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce, 252-441-8144
Carteret County Chamber of Commerce, 252-726-6350
Havelock Chamber of Commerce, 252-447-1101
New Bern Chamber of Commerce, 919-637-3111
South Brunswick Islands Chamber of Commerce, 910-754-6644
Southport-Oak Island Chamber of Commerce, 910-457-6964
Greater Wilmington Chamber of Commerce, 910-762-2611

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL. This article first appeared in the October 1999 issue of North Carolina magazine.

 

 

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