Fall
Getaways
Best Trips to the Mountains, Piedmont
and Coast
 By Bill F. Hensley
October
has always been my favorite month. It's a time
for cider, football, hunting and taking long
walks, kicking up leaves as I go.
It's a colorful period
when our state springs alive with brilliant red
and gold splashes from the mountains to the
coast. The awe-inspiring display that Mother
Nature puts forth cannot be erased easily once
you have seen the fall color parade in all its
splendor.
The weather seems just
right, too, with a nip in the morning air; bright
sunny rays that cast shadows throughout the day;
crisp, falling leaves that cover the ground; a
warming fire in the evening and cuddling up under
a blanket for a good night's sleep. And summer
clothes — khakis and short-sleeved shirts
— give way to sweaters and corduroy slacks.
What's more, except for
the stream of “leaf peepers” who
permeate our environs, traffic is more normal
than in summer, except of course, on the scenic
Blue Ridge Parkway, which is the perfect place to
view the majestic and colorful terrain that lies
all around. But I have learned to share the glory
of North Carolina with others and to take pride
in what they see.
October, then, is an
ideal time to travel and to see, enjoy and
appreciate a unique and beautiful state that the
pilgrims who first discovered this place called
“the goodliest land under the cope of
heaven.” How right they were!
As an enthusiastic
traveler, especially in the Tar Heel State, I
like to combine two of my favorite pastimes
— sightseeing and golf — when October
rolls around. Friends will tell you that I'm far
better at the former, since my athletic skills
are somewhat limited, but nothing could be more
enjoyable than chasing a little white ball over
lush green fairways at any time of the year,
especially in our most colorful month.
If time and money were
not a problem, a somewhat ridiculous but
necessary comment, each October I would tour the
state from Manteo to Murphy (and a lot of places
in between) and renew my love for some favorite
places while discovering a lot of new ones.
So I invite you to come
along for the ride to:
The mountains
Where to begin a long,
circuitous journey is always a problem, but since
I live in Charlotte, I will start from there.
The first leg is to the
southwest corner of the state to Cashiers, a
three-and-a-half-hour drive that puts me in North
Carolina's “waterfall country.” This
Jackson County locale, along with neighboring
Highlands in Macon County, is one of the South's
most popular summer vacation destinations for the
wise travelers from Florida, Georgia, South
Carolina and Alabama, yet it is little-known to
the homefolks except for a handful who wouldn't
go anywhere else. You can buy an Atlanta, Miami
or Columbia newspaper in the area, but you can't
buy a paper from North Carolina, if that tells
you something.
Tar Heel residents are
missing a delightful place (they say it's too
far), because this is a spectacular area of rare
natural beauty. There are sparkling waterfalls
and streams throughout the area and scenery that
is breath-taking.
I can recommend staying
at the historic, popular High Hampton Inn and
hold hour-long chats with owner W. D. McKee, or
at the Millstone Inn, or Tim Lovelace's Greystone
Inn, or renting a log cabin. Golf would be at
High Hampton, Sapphire Mountain, or Trillium, a
new course that opened recently that was designed
by former PGA touring pro Morris Hatalsky.
It's just a short drive
to Waynesville, and I would time the trip so that
I could enjoy a family-style meal at the Jarrett
House in Dillsboro, famous for its fried chicken
and fresh vegetables.
In Haywood County, I
would stay at Cataloochee Ranch, a special
favorite that I have been coming to for nearly 40
years. This family-oriented “dude
ranch” is the South's oldest and best-known
and renowned for its hospitality, cuisine and
warm atmosphere. Here you can ride horses over
picturesque trails, and play golf at the
Waynesville Country Club, Maggie Valley Country
Club or at Springdale in Canton, a fine layout
that presents challenges with every shot.
Onward to Asheville, my
old hometown. The famed Grove Park Inn has been
my stomping grounds for longer than I can
remember, and each visit over the years has been
memorable. If rooms were not available, I would
try Richmond Hill, a country inn with a high
rating and a prized reputation. It would be my
first visit, though it has been high on my list
for years.
In Asheville, golf would
be at the inn's Donald Ross course and at
Biltmore Forest Country Club, where I am a
non-resident member. Biltmore Forest is a Ross
classic that dates to 1922 and recently hosted
the U.S. Women's Amateur championship. At
mealtime I would flip a coin and head for one ofa
dozen or so restaurants.
Our trip now heads for
the northern mountains to the Boone, Blowing
Rock, Banner Elk area. For accommodations, my
choice would be the Hound Ears Club or the
Eseeola Lodge in Linville, two fine resorts with
great golf and food to match. When not dining at
the resort, I would head for Jackalope's on Beech
Mountain, the Louisiana Purchase, or the Inn at
Elk River. Golf would be at two top-notch public
courses, Mountain Glen in Newland and the Boone
Golf Club.
Side trips would be to
Grandfather Mountain and, hopefully, an encounter
with owner Hugh Morton, North Carolina's top
promoter whose talent with a camera has helped
put our state on the travel map.
The Piedmont
The road now leads to
the Triad area and a round of golf at Tanglewood,
near Winston-Salem; a barbecue lunch or dinner in
Lexington; an overnight stop at the swanky new
Grandover Resort in Greensboro where I would play
two new courses that have been well-received; and
more golf at Bryan Park, a public facility that
is outstanding.
Headed toward Raleigh on
I-85, I would go by The Challenge in Graham and
hope I could get a game with Mike Long, one of
the state's most personable pros.
The Triangle Area is
rich in things to see and do — strolling the
campuses of great universities; staying at the
Farrington House, the Carolina Inn or the Taylor
House; visiting numerous interesting museums;
attending football games; and playing golf at
Finley (with a brand new course about to open),
Hillandale, Neuse and other courses.
But for a real golfer's
paradise, we must turn south to the
Pinehurst/Southern Pines hub in Moore County.
There are around 30 golf courses here, along with
a strong emphasis upon tennis and horses. But the
links rule supreme, led by the Pinehurst Country
Club with eight courses, five of which start and
end at the clubhouse.
Not playing the famed
No. 2 course would be like going to Rome and not
visiting the Vatican. Site of the recent U.S.
Open, the course has been one of the nation's
finest since it was created at the turn of the
century. It is, in brief, Donald Ross'
masterpiece and teeing it up here is an
experience you will long remember.
If No. 2 is king,
courses seven and eight aren't far behind. But in
reality, all of the courses are enjoyable and can
provide a week or more of golf thrills.
Nearby are two more Ross
creations that are highly ranked, Pine Needles
and Mid Pines. Both were built in the mid-1920s
and were fierce competitors until several years
ago when Peggy Kirk Bell and her family acquired
Mid Pines to complement their jewel across
Midland Road.
Stay at the Carolina
Hotel or the newly-refurbished Holly Inn in
Pinehurst and at Pine Needles or Mid Pines in
Southern Pines. All are outstanding.
And while you are in the
area, don't miss the exciting new Tobacco Road
course, a half-hour to the north on US 1.
Designed by Mike Strantz, the course has been
called “Pine Valley on steroids” and
has already been nominated for best new course of
the year. This is golf like you probably haven't
seen it before, and it is an exciting adventure.
The coast
It's a long haul to the
Outer Banks but there are stops for
barbecue all along the way, especially in Rocky
Mount and Wilson. Unfortunately, I am not
familiar with golf in that area, so I would put
away the sticks for a few days and concentrate on
food, scenery and history.
A day and night in
Edenton is a must. One of my favorite towns, the
accommodations — and food — at the
Lords Proprietors rank with the best and has
served as headquarters on two recent trips. To
stroll the streets of Edenton is like living in a
history book that dates to the 1700s. The place
reeks with charm and dignity.
Another fine dining spot
in town is the Dram Tree, just off the main drag.
You will like it.
The drive from Edenton
to the Outer Banks is just over an hour and
crosses the massive Albemarle Sound. It's a
peaceful jaunt that usually evokes thoughts of
the pleasures that await in this unique land of
sand and surf.
In Nags Head I like the
First Colony, a distinguished and traditional inn
with an ocean view. The rooms are large,
comfortable, and tastefully decorated. And the
hospitality is superb.
A trip to the Outer
Banks wouldn't be complete, however, without a
visit to the Sanderling Inn, one of the state's
most highly regarded hostelries. Located in the
improbable village of Duck, the Sanderling has
amassed a national reputation for its high
quality and excellent food and service. A stay in
this luxurious inn can be the highlight of any
vacation. And say hello to Christine Berger, the
general manager. She runs a fascinating inn.
And it's just a stone's
throw from the Currituck Club, a course I
consider the best in the area. Designed by Rees
Jones, the links course is reminiscent of those
in Scotland and Ireland with sea oats and dunes
coming into play often. There are about a
half-dozen courses on the banks, enough to
provide sufficient challenges and variety for
golf enthusiasts.
How to start the
homeward trip is always a puzzling decision. Do I
take the leisurely drive down Hatteras Island and
enjoy its spectacular scenery, visit the
delightful village of Ocracoke and then ride the
ferry to Cedar Island? By doing so, I can stop
off in Morehead City and Beaufort, two places I
don't want to miss.
But that route means I
would have to double back to see Washington and
New Bern, another dynamic duo of Southern charm
that rank high on my list of favorite places.
Both of those laid back waterfront towns reek
with history and nostalgia and offer a variety of
intriguing architecture. In New Bern, where I
often enjoy walking along the river and seeing
the stately homes, I can look forward to playing
golf at Taberna, a new course I have heard a lot
about.
This time out, I'll eat
at the Sanitary Café in Morehead, walk the
lovely streets of Beaufort and then head for
Wilmington and Brunswick County for more golf
than I can handle.
In the past decade, this
area has pushed hard to become a golf mecca, and
it has succeeded admirably. There are now more
than 30 courses in this southeast corner of the
state, including three at St. James Plantation,
Sea Trail, and Ocean Ridge Plantation, and two at
Angel's Trace and The Pearl.
There certainly is no
shortage of good courses in Brunswick County with
such attractive layouts as Magnolia Greens,
Carolina National, Oak Island and dozens of
others on the scene.
And the state's
best-kept secret is the George Cobb classic on
Bald Head Island. A ferry takes you to this
secluded barrier island and there are enough
activities—cycling, fishing, hiking, tennis,
swimming and shell searching—to keep you
busy for days. There are rental cottages and
condos available and two convenient bed and
breakfast inns.
In Southport, eat at the
Yacht Basin Provision Co. where you will find the
seafood is delicious and the atmosphere friendly.
A number of local restaurants stand out:
Sandfiddler, Ship's Chandler and the Sea Captain.
Or you can catch a seafood dinner yourself by
chartering a boat along the waterfront for a day
in the surf.
For more travel and
tourism information on destinations in the
mountains mentioned in this article, call:
Alleghany County Chamber
of Commerce, 910-372-5473
Asheville Area Chamber
of Commerce, 828-258-6101
Avery/Banner Elk Chamber
of Commerce, 828-898-5605
Boone Area Chamber of
Commerce, 828-264-2225
Haywood County Chamber
of Commerce, 828-456-3021
Mitchell County Chamber
of Commerce, 828-765-9483
For more travel and
tourism information on Piedmont destinations
mentioned, call:
Alamance County Chamber
of Commerce, 336-228-1338
Chapel Hill-Carrboro
Chamber of Commerce, 919-967-7075
Clayton Chamber of
Commerce, 919-553-6352
Greensboro Area Chamber
of Commerce, 336-275-8675
Greater Winston-Salem
Chamber of Commerce, 336-725-2361
Greater Raleigh Chamber
of Commerce, 919-664-7000
Sandhills Area Chamber
of Commerce, 910-692-3926
Sanford Area Chamber of
Commerce, 919-775-7341
For more travel and
tourism information on coastal destinations
mentioned, call:
Outer Banks Chamber of
Commerce, 252-441-8144
Carteret County Chamber
of Commerce, 252-726-6350
Havelock Chamber of
Commerce, 252-447-1101
New Bern Chamber of
Commerce, 919-637-3111
South Brunswick Islands
Chamber of Commerce, 910-754-6644
Southport-Oak Island
Chamber of Commerce, 910-457-6964
Greater Wilmington
Chamber of Commerce, 910-762-2611
COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL. This article
first appeared in the October 1999 issue of North
Carolina magazine.
|
