Chimney Rock
One of the state's oldest attractions continues to draw gaping tourists

By Bill F. Hensley

A trolley car laden with tourists now runs though the Hickory Nut Gorge in the Blue Ridge Mountains foothills 25 miles south of Asheville. It travels from Gerton to Lake Lure, passing through Bat Cave and Chimney Rock, in one of North Carolina's oldest, prettiest and most popular areas.

At the turn of the last century, the natural canyon became an important passageway from the Piedmont to the mountains, and stagecoaches and Pony Express riders took passengers and mail though the rugged terrain on each side of the Rocky Broad River.

Visitors then and now liked what they saw. One man who especially liked this thermal region was Dr. Lucius Morse, a Missouri physician who came down from a Hendersonville visit in 1902 and became intrigued with Chimney Rock, a towering formation that stands 2,280 feet over the gorge and river and offered majestic views for as far as 75 miles.

The rock had been opened to the public in 1895 and was quite popular by the time Dr. Morse bought Chimney Rock. Guests at the nearby Esmeralda Inn, which had opened in 1892, could sit on the front porch and see the giant monolith topping the skyline in the distance.

A three-mile road was cut to the base of the rock, and visitors then would hike to the top and survey the countryside from the vantage point of the many eagles that circled the chimney-like structure.

Today, the 1,000-acre Chimney Rock Park is a haven for hikers and nature lovers. There are more than three and a half miles of wildflower trails, including one that winds its way to Hickory Nut Falls, a 404-foot falls that is one of the nation's highest.

A 26-story elevator was built in 1948 that, at the time, was the tallest in the state. The shaft was carved through solid granite, using eight tons of dynamite.

Built originally as a stagecoach shop, the Esmeralda Inn has had a colorful and tragic past. Named for the book of the same name written by Frances Hodgson Burnette, the original 13-room Esmeralda prospered through the turn of the century but was destroyed by fire in 1917. It was rebuilt immediately and operated for 80 years before another fire reduced it to ashes in 1997.

It took owners Ackie and Joanne Okpych two and a half years to plan and construct the “new” Esmeralda on the same grounds. It reopened with 14 rooms last October and quickly regained its popularity with overnight guests as well as drop-ins for lunch and dinner.

A beautiful garden of native flora, a waterfall and huge hemlocks add dignity and grace to the two-acre site on Highway 64 a mile west of Chimney Rock. Front porch rocking chairs still face the river across the highway.

“We are proud that many guests say they can hardly tell the difference,” offered Joanne Okpych. “That, of course, is just what we tried so hard to do. We wanted things to be just as they were.”

The inn is open all year, except January, and seasonal rates range from $129 to $149 per night, including a continental breakfast. Overnight guests have a small, first floor dining room while lunch and dinner guests dine on the second floor.

The Esmeralda has housed a number of movie stars who were in the area making movies, including Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Gloria Swanson, William S. Hart and Clark Gable. Author Lew Wallace finished the script for “Ben Hur” in Room 9.

Water sports takes the lead of things to do here: fishing, swimming, boating, skiing, rafting. The Lake Lure Golf and Beach Resort features two fine 18-hole courses that lie in a peaceful valley with mountain vistas everywhere. The resort offers packages that include golf and accommodations in one, two or three bedroom condos that overlook the courses. The resort is managed by Reimar Steffan who was longtime manager at the Waynesville Country Club. There is also a nine-hole municipal course in Lake Lure that was designed by Donald Ross.

Also nearby is the Lake Lure Inn, which rose to national prominence as the set for the movie “Dirty Dancing.” It has 50 pleasant rooms that overlook the lake and the adjoining arcade. Built in 1927 when the town was incorporated, the inn features a restaurant and a conference center and is now locally owned.

After you have enjoyed fresh mountain trout at the Esmeralda, check out the many good restaurants recommended by the locals, such as Old Rock Café, Larkins on the Lake, Bill's Porterhouse and Point of View.

Despite its many assets, the Hickory Nut Gorge is not considered “a high rent district” by the traveling public.

“We are moderately priced,” said Judy Beeson of the Rutherford County Chamber of Commerce. She said that visitors come from all over the nation — and foreign countries — and that nearly 50,000 persons stopped at the visitor information center last year. Chimney Rock Park announced 1999 attendance of 280,000.

Wander through the gorge on your next trip to the mountains. Or take the trolley. You can't go wrong for two dollars. For further information contact the Hickory Nut Gorge Chamber of Commerce at 828-625-2725.

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL. This article first appeared in the June 2000 issue of the North Carolina magazine.