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Tar Heel Travels

Linville
Rustic elegance and excellent cuisine 
are everyday staples at the Eseeola Lodge


By Bill F. Hensley

There’s a fire in the dining room fireplace that is more for atmosphere than to knock the chill off a cool summer morning. Early risers are sipping coffee and reading newspapers on the comfortable couches near a lavish breakfast buffet and making plans for an active day in the North Carolina high country.

Two middle-aged men exchange information about hiking on the scenic trails at nearby Grandfather Mountain while a young father reveals plans for a family whitewater rafting trip on the Nolichucky River. My plans were to play golf at the adjacent Linville Golf Club, a Donald Ross classic that dates to 1924.

Mountain lovers have made the Eseeola Lodge in Linville a favorite getaway for more than a hundred years. The rustic elegance of this peaceful and charming hostelry has brought solace to four generations of devoted guests who first discovered the beauty and serenity of the area in 1892.

Originally called “Chestnut Lodge,” the present inn was built in 1926 as an annex to the original Eseeola Lodge, which made its debut 34 years earlier at a cost of $22,000. That building was destroyed by fire in 1936, giving rise to Chestnut taking over as the principal lodge and inheriting the Eseeola name.

Today, the lodge, which was renovated last year, has 24 rooms and a two-bedroom cottage on the lavish grounds beautified by a winding creek and wildflower gardens that surround the chestnut paneled edifice. All the rooms have balconies. Eseeola (an Indian name that means “cliffy river”) is open from mid-May until the end of October each year and rates include breakfast and dinner.

Long known for its comfortable, gracious accommodations and excellent cuisine, Eseeola was awarded four stars by the prestigious Mobil service in 1986 and has maintained its lofty rating each year since. There are more than 200 employees to look after the seasonal guests, including two dozen fresh-faced college students who work in the dining room.

An especially popular occasion at the lodge is the weekly seafood buffet each Thursday. During a July dinner, 360 people showed up to enjoy a sumptuous meal of fish, crab, shrimp, oysters and other seafood delicacies at a price of $38 per person plus tax and gratuity.

“Working with the young folks is one of the best parts of my job,” says John Blackburn, 50, who has been general manager of the lodge and president of Linville Resorts for the past 19 years. “And the next best is having the opportunity to meet so many interesting guests.”

A native of Avery County, Blackburn practically grew up at Eseeola, having served as a desk clerk as a college student. Both his grandmother and mother worked at the old lodge as housekeepers. In addition to his hotel duties, Blackburn directs real estate activities, oversees the renting of 30 village cottages, and is in charge of the golf course that is adjacent to the lodge.

Golf was first played in Linville in the summer of 1887 when guests found the spacious fields nearby ideal for testing their driving skills. By the turn of the century, nine holes had been laid out. Soon four more holes were added, and a golf professional was hired to give lessons. The caddy fee was 15 cents for nine holes.

In 1924, Linville Resorts hired Donald Ross, the famed Scottish architect who was living in Pinehurst, to design 18 holes in the valley along the Linville River. It took Ross only two days to design the course, but the construction required more than two years. Using mule teams to drag and shape the fairways, Ross’ design followed the natural rolling terrain of the picturesque valley.

The course has changed little in the past 74 years but will undergo a $1.3 million facelift at the end of this season that will include a sprinkler system, cart path relocations, and a reshaping of bunkers. A private club with 300 members, the course is open to Eseeola guests. Linville was ranked as the No. 7 course in North Carolina in the annual ratings by the golf panel of this publication.

Other lodge amenities include a heated outdoor swimming pool, eight tennis courts, a croquet court, a fitness center and a comprehensive recreational program for children.

A stay at Eseeola reveals the good side of life. It’s unhurried, relaxing and friendly. It’s a place where carefree, casual days involve outdoor sports, and where the evening’s social activities include excellent food, drink and fellowship in a more formal atmosphere.

For more information, call 800-742-6717 or visit www.eseeola.com.

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