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Tar Heel Travels

Brunswick County

Hit the beaches and the links, 
but leave time for the night life


By Bill F. Hensley

Obviously, Benjamin Holden knew what he was doing in 1756 when he acquired 100 acres that extended from Lockwood Folly Inlet to Bacon Inlet for the mere sum of 50 shillings.

Brunswick County is a jewel in the North Carolina tourism tiara. It is to the state what lipstick is to a woman. It hasn’t always been that way, mind you, because the area has come on strong in recent years, thanks to a miraculous growth of golf courses in this picturesque land of saltwater, sand dunes and sea oats.

A decade or so ago, you could count the Brunswick County golf courses on one hand and have a finger left over. Today, you would need to borrow fingers from everyone in the family because there are 36 courses to be enjoyed. The building surge began around 1990 and has resulted in a delightful mix of links-type courses for the world to enjoy.

For example, there are three courses each at Sea Trail, St. James Plantation and Ocean Ridge Plantation, two at Angels Trace and The Pearl, and enough 18-hole layouts elsewhere to keep even the most avid of players busy. Golf is king here, but it has to share the crown with the surf, sand or sun on the sparkling beaches.

Ah, the beaches. Basically, there are four in the county: Sunset, Ocean Isle, Oak Island and Holden. They have much in common. All are clean, spacious and have a deep-centered concern for wildlife habitat and preservation. What’s more, the beaches are unique in that all face south, which means that, when facing the ocean, the sun travels in a left to right pattern throughout the day.

The small fishing village of Southport reeks with history and adds an element of charm to the area. Its tree-lined streets, stately homes and classic waterfront make it one of North Carolina’s prettiest towns. If it’s big cities, nightlife and department stores that you are seeking, you’ll need to venture to Wilmington, a half-hour drive to the north, or to Myrtle Beach, a similar distance to the southwest.

But why would you want to? Southport and the rest of the county offers numerous incentives to stay where you are. There’s enough shopping — including antiques — to satisfy any credit card; a wide variety of hometown restaurants, and a plethora of outdoor activities that include fishing, boating, hiking and cycling.

Don’t want to lug your boat all the way to the coast? Not to worry. There is a plentiful supply of rental boats, large or small, throughout the county.

Holden Beach, in the midst of this growing coastal county, is typical of the beaches that sprung to life following World War II. Obviously, Benjamin Holden knew what he was doing in 1756 when he acquired 100 acres that extended from Lockwood Folly Inlet to Bacon Inlet for the mere sum of 50 shillings.

The beach was relatively unknown for decades until it sprouted as a commercial fishing village in the 1920s. Though it had tremendous potential, development on the island was hampered because access was blocked by construction on the Intracoastal Waterway.

Development began in earnest in 1934 when a ferry began service. It was not until a high-rise bridge was completed in 1988 that Holden had free access.

Today, the eight and one-half mile strip is home to around 900 permanent residents who appreciate the beauty and the tranquility of the idyllic setting. But the peak season population swells to three times that amount and becomes a summer home for visitors from around the nation. Many of the beach cottages are for rent through local realtors.

Though the number of visitors shows a staggering increase in the summer months, Holden Beach is seldom crowded. Swimmers, sunbathers, walkers and fishermen share a peaceful coexistence. And when the sun sets, they head for one of the restaurants in the area — such as Cap’n Pete’s, Paradise Café, the Seafood Barn or Betty’s Waterfront — to partake of the day’s catch, shrimp, crabs or other local delicacies.

Should you want to make Holden Beach a permanent or second home, oceanfront and canal lots are available with costs averaging from $250,000 to $1 million or more. Realtors indicate that cottages are always on the market — some at modest prices — and that upscale luxury homes can be bought in a gated community for just shy of a million dollars.

Throughout the year, there is a wide range of traditional festivals, golf events, fishing tournaments, art shows, crab derbies, and parades as the area springs to life to celebrate its history and heritage.

“There is always something interesting and entertaining going on,” says Donna McGinnis of the Brunswick County Chamber of Commerce. “The folks down this way enjoy a good time, and they like to show visitors a good time, too. This is a fun place.”

And so it is. For more information on Brunswick County and Holden Beach, call 800-795-SAND or visit www.ncbrunswick.com.

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