Fall Travel Editor’s Note: With the heat fading from the summer months, now is a good time to get back outdoors and enjoy a few weekend getaways. We asked our travel editor, a former state director of travel and tourism who is intimately acquainted with North Carolina’s vacation spots, to recommend the best places to see. Car Trips! A tank of gas gets you to some stunning destinations in a state blessed with history and recreational opportunities By Bill F. Hensley More travel tips: Swing into fall with a round of golf
Photos clockwise from above: Tryon Palace is a showplace of 18th century elegance in New Bern, site of the first state capital. Grandfather Mountain casts a majestic shadow over a church in the northwest mountains. Wilmington's Arlie Gardens includes 10 acres of freshwater lakes.

I’m not one of those people who look for any weekend excuse to “get away from it all.” Like most folks, however, I enjoy an occasional escape from reality and an opportunity to hide from the stress and problems of a busy and complicated world.

Over the years, a brief getaway has become a natural extension of my lifestyle. In traveling around the state for decades, I have developed a prized assortment of favorite places — from the mountains to the coast — where I like to go for a few days of peace, quiet and relaxation, or to increase my heart rate via recreational activities.

Wherever I go, I want to feel comfortable, so I venture to those places that have a distinct personality — where people know my name, where the setting is unique, and where I can enjoy doing nothing or being as busy as I choose.

Obviously, my list of favorites includes those idyllic spots where there are good accommodations, fine food and service, and a warm, friendly atmosphere that centers around a casual, laid-back existence. Though I enjoy luxury, it is not a requirement for a pleasant and enjoyable experience.

“Share a list of your favorite getaway areas with our readers,” advised this publication’s Senior Editor, Kevin Brafford. “Take them on a tour and let them know why these places are so special.”

I am happy to do just that. So off we go, starting in the mountains and finishing along the coast.



Asheville

Being mountain born and bred, I learned long ago to find solace amid the towering peaks and the peaceful valleys. Even though fellow Ashevillian Thomas Wolfe advised that “you can’t go home again,” I head for the hills of home as often as possible.

As long as I can remember, Asheville has been a premier travel destination. Of the state’s top attractions, The Land of the Sky has its share, such internationally known sites as the Blue Ridge Parkway, Biltmore House and the Grove Park Inn, plus a variety of entertaining festivals and gatherings. It also has cool mountain breezes that air condition by nature.

What’s more, the city is the gateway to the beautiful western part of the state. Popular destinations such as Cherokee and the Great Smokies National Park, and the many large lakes that border Georgia and Tennessee are easily reached.

In Asheville, my favorite places to stay are the venerable Grove Park Inn, which now boasts of a world-renowned spa, and the relatively new Inn on Biltmore Estate, a dazzling 213-room hostelry on the Vanderbilt estate that offers majestic views of the surrounding mountains. A traveler can’t go wrong at either, and both also offer fine dining.

Donald Ross, one of the nation’s most revered golf course architects, left his mark in Asheville, creating the Grove Park Inn course, Asheville Municipal, the Asheville Country Club and Biltmore Forest Country Club. That makes golf a must for anyone interested in challenging a classic Ross course in this scenic valley.



Waynesville

My second destination is the Waynesville area, where my home away from home is the Cataloochee Ranch or The Swag, both of which are secluded on mountaintops that provide breathtaking panoramic views.

There is no comparing the two because they are vastly different. Cataloochee is one of the nation’s best-known dude ranches, and has been a mountain hideaway for more than 60 years. It is still owned and operated by the Alexander family. This is the perfect place for casual, log cabin living; horseback riding along winding, hilly trails; curling up next to the fireplace with a good book; cool nights under a quilt; and home-cooking. The ranch is as comfortable as an old pair of cowboy boots, and dressing for dinner means changing into a clean pair of blue jeans.

The Swag, on the other hand, combines rustic elegance with charm and gracious living. The 15 rooms and cabins are attractively decorated, the food of gourmet quality and the hospitality impeccable. Owners Deener and Dan Matthews are perfect hosts and will guide you on hiking trails through the adjoining Great Smoky Mountains.

Nearby Maggie Valley and Waynesville offer visitors the conveniences of restaurants, shopping and tourist stops. It is a half-hour drive to Cherokee, an Indian reservation, and home to the only casino in North Carolina.



Cashiers

A third favorite is just across the ridge — including Cold Mountain — in Jackson County. The sleepy town of Cashiers isn’t exactly a household word in much of the state, but it ranks No. 1 with visitors from Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, Tennessee and Alabama. Evidently the good word hasn’t spread to the east.

Located in the beautiful southwest region, the town is in the center of the state’s noted waterfall country with dozens of cascading streams on display, including Silver Run and Whitewater Falls, the highest falls east of the Mississippi River. In this locale, a favorite pastime is to take a picnic lunch and hike the Horsepasture River, stopping at Turtle, Rainbow and “Bust Your Butt” falls. There is also hiking on Whiteside Mountain and at Chimney Top, located at the renowned High Hampton Inn.

High Hampton has been a popular family destination since the 1930s and is now catering to its fifth generation of guests. Look for owner W.D. McKee holding forth with vivid mountain tales that will entertain and amuse the young folks. If you wander away from the inn, enjoy a country breakfast at Tommy’s, lunch at the Cornucopia, or dinner at Micah’s, The Orchard or the Lightwater Grill. Golf is available at Trillium, Highlands Cove and Sapphire Mountain.

Millstone Inn, just outside of town, is a homespun facility in a majestic setting high above a deep valley and hovering below the crest of rugged Whiteside Mountain.

Then there is the small, stately Greystone Inn, which is located just a short drive on Highway 64 from sparkling Lake Toxaway. The accommodations, cuisine, service and hospitality here are a byproduct of owner Tim Lovelace’s careful attention to detail and his innate desire to please his guests. There’s no reason to leave this heavenly spot except to go home.



Boone

Any listing of favorite mountain spots wouldn’t be complete without the area near Boone. Snow will dust the ground in a couple of months, a signal that some of the top ski resorts on the East Coast will soon open.

In the quaint endearing village of nearby Linville sits the Eseeola Lodge, which dates all the way to 1916. General manager John Blackburn presides over the festivities, and the veteran hotelier takes pride in offering a superb product for discerning guests. Though any meal here is a treat, the Thursday night seafood buffet has helped make the inn famous.

There are only 24 rooms in the handsome chestnut bark-covered inn that was renovated and remodeled recently. Next door to Eseeola is a great Donald Ross golf course that has ranked among the state’s best since it was opened in 1924.

Visitors to this part of the state also enjoy fishing, hiking on Grandfather Mountain, cruising on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and visiting the nearby towns of Blowing Rock and Banner Elk, where there is excellent shopping for native crafts and antiques. This area is arguably the heart of the North Carolina mountains, and thus sees a steady stream of travelers.


Charlotte, Greensboro

As we move to the Piedmont, more urban excursions are within our midst. In recent years, both Charlotte and Greensboro — as well as the state — were given tourism boosts with the opening of swanky, full-service resorts that host individuals, small groups and conventions in plush, modern facilities.

Ballantyne Resort in south Charlotte, near Pineville, opened in 1991 and its golf course was immediately voted “Best New Course of the Year” by this publication’s golf ratings panel. It features the Dana Rader Golf School, a state-of-the-art spa, and a 36-room executive lodge that overlooks the golf course. In addition to the 216-room, seven-story hotel, the complex contains a 90-room Courtyard by Marriott, and an 18-room Staybridge Suites.

Across from the hotel is a self-contained shopping center with numerous restaurants, stores and service facilities. And more growth is promised.

Grandover Resort, just west of Greensboro on Interstate 85, opened in 1999 and offers 247 rooms in an 11-story tower that overlooks two 18-hole championship golf courses. Like Ballantyne, it also has a spa and a variety of resort services to soothe and entertain its guests.

Although the resorts are large, there is a home-like quality that provides a sense of belonging. When I go to either, the routine is the same: check in, play golf, have a massage, have a relaxing dinner in luxurious surroundings, and then get a good night’s sleep because the next day brings more of the same.



Pinehurst, Southern Pines

Since the turn of the 20th century, Pinehurst and Southern Pines have been hosting golfers from around the world and have developed an enviable reputation for supremacy. There are more than 30 top-notch golf courses for the public to enjoy, but there is more than golf in the growing Sandhills area.

Check in at the Carolina Hotel or the Holly Inn in Pinehurst, or move toward Southern Pines, a six-mile drive, and encamp at Pine Needles Lodge or the Mid Pines Inn, across from each other on Midland Road.

Great golf is at your doorstep. There are eight courses at Pinehurst alone, including the famed No. 2, which hosted the 1999 U.S. Open and will do so again in 2005. Pine Needles, which has been the site of two U.S. Women’s Opens and already has been booked for a third in 2007, and Mid Pines offer Donald Ross gems that will test your physical and mental abilities. And if your game has gone south, enroll at a golf school and watch excessive strokes soon disappear. Tell famed teachers Peggy Kirk Bell and Eric Alpenfels we sent you.

There is also horseback riding, spas, tennis, swimming, lawn bowling and croquet to keep you occupied during your stay. The breakfast buffet at the Carolina Hotel — a Tar Heel fixture since 1901 — and dinners at such places as Theo’s, Beefeater and Pinecrest Inn are sure to please.

Both of the New England-type villages are ideal for walking and abound with unique stores.

Wilmington

No state can be more proud of its coast than North Carolina. From north to south — as well as from a rare east to west pattern — the beaches are a priceless treasure, the setting is dramatic, and the lifestyle is simple and pleasureable.

The entire Wilmington area has a striking appeal. It features a variety of interesting museums, art and cultural activities, jazz, golf, gracious gardens, the Battleship North Carolina, and a plethora of water sports from swimming to boating to fishing.

Look for three distinct parts of this port city on the broad Cape Fear River: the downtown riverfront, the historic district and the beaches. There are a number of fine inns and restaurants in each area. For a place to lay your head, try the Graystone Inn on Third Street, the Verandas on Nun Street or — on the beaches — the time honored Blockade Runner or the Holiday Inn Sunspree at Wrightsville or the new Courtyard by Marriott at Carolina Beach.

At the Club Phoenix restautant, visitors enjoy gawking at the movie and TV celebrities who are occasionally in town for a film production. Quality seafood and other delicacies are featured at such places as Oceanic, the Cottage, Elijah’s, or the unique Darlings by the Sea at Kure Beach.

A jazz fan, I check the schedule at Airlie Gardens — an in-season delight — before going south to Brunswick County for golf, plus a few hours roaming the quaint village of Southport.



New Bern

New Bern is one of the state’s most historic and attractive towns, and always provides memorable visits. As a Colonial capital, it helped give birth to our state. Later, local pharmacist Caleb Bradham created one of America’s most renowned soft drinks, Pepsi Cola, and there is a mid-town museum dedicated to the soft drink. The nearby Fireman’s Museum and an aviation exhibit in the town of Havelock are both educational and enlightening.

Though I have seen it many times, I still enjoy Tryon Palace and its beautiful gardens, a showplace of 18th century elegance. What’s more, there are a number of fine old homes in the neighborhood that will take strollers back to an earlier time when the state was in its infancy.

Conveniently located on a handsome site at the confluence of the Trent and Neuse rivers in Craven County, New Bern has made many contributions to our heritage and traditions. A 90-minute trolley tour through the downtown area brings to life its historic existence.

Two bed and breakfasts are noteworthy: the Howard House and the Harmony House Inn, both on Pollack Street, while the Sheraton Grand, on the waterfront, is a popular modern hotel that sits next door to a glistening new convention center.


Beaufort, Morehead City

The picturesque waterfront community of Beaufort is much as it was when it was founded in 1723. Many of the old Victorian homes still exist and are found on shady side streets, many of which overlook the waters that hosted pirates, sea captains, boat-builders and Confederate spies.

Tombstones in the old cemetery, a few steps from the village, reveal much of the region’s legends and lore. There is also a maritime museum, a courthouse, the old jail and an apothecary shop to wander through for nostalgic entertainment. Popular inns are the Pecan Tree on Queen Street, and the Captain’s Quarters on Ann Street, and dining favorites are the Front Street Grill and the Sandbar at the Town Creek Marina.

Morehead City, a thriving port across the bridge, is the area’s hub. Visitors can charter fishing boats, enjoy a host of local seafood restaurants — such as the Sanitary Fish Market — and tour nearby Fort Macon State Park, Harker’s Island and the Cape Lookout National Seashore. With luck, you may see a wild pony or two roaming the marshy shores.



The Outer Banks

The Outer Banks oozes charm and solitude and makes even the most active traveler want to slow down for a spell. On these wind-swept shores, Englishman Sir Walter Raleigh first attempted to settle the New World in 1585. But that effort failed, creating the famous “Lost Colony,” whose story is told every summer in an outdoor drama near Manteo.

The Outer Banks is a place of wide, deserted beaches; vacation cottages; a vast national seashore; water sports; birdwatching; hiking and hunting; the birthplace of aviation; barrier islands; lighthouses; the Pamlico and Albemarle sounds; historic sites; gardens; pirates’ hideouts; and hang gliding at Jockey’s Ridge.

There are enough seafood restaurants around to feed an army of hungry souls, and two inns are special enough to merit a lengthy stay: The First Colony Inn in Nags Head and the Sanderling Inn in Duck are travel havens. Both provide careful attention to a traveler’s needs and rank among the state’s leading hostelries.

Come here to learn the story of Virginia Dare, to fish, to bask in the sun, to find rare seashells, and to relive America’s glorious past. One day, take a leisurely drive from Nags Head to Corolla, near the Virginia line, enjoying Kill Devil Hills, the Wright Brothers Memorial and Duck en route.

On another day, go south where there is water on both sides as you motor along Bodie Island to the tiny villages of Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo and Avon to Cape Hatteras. Climb the towering lighthouse and feast on crab cakes at a waterfront eatery. Take the free ferry to Ocracoke Island, a last bastion of peace and serenity.

When you leave the Outer Banks, be sure to stop off and spend at least one day in Edenton, another historic treasure that served as an early state capital. Beauty is abundant in this charming, peaceful town where a casual stroll reflects a yesteryear that is preserved in all its glory.

These are the places in North Carolina that I enjoy, and I think you will, too. Tell them I sent you.


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