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July 2004
Tar Heel Travels


Rockingham County


The three rivers that run through it offer stunning views and Class III rapids


By Bill F. Hensley

Fairview Farm is an historic bed and breakfast and a must-see for antique lovers
Mayo River flows gently by rocky cliffs, dense forests and through wide floodplains. There is an abundance of mountain laurel and wildflowers. There are Class III whitewater rapids in places that will test paddlers to the maximum, and wildlife is plentiful along the shores.

Rockingham County could easily have been the site of a popular movie a few years back entitled “A River Runs Through It.” Only in this location, north of Greensboro and bordering the Virginia line, there are three rivers that play a prominent role in the county’s history and heritage — and perhaps its future.

A scenic, peaceful destination between Stokes and Caswell counties, Rockingham traced its modest economic success for decades to a thriving textile and tobacco existence that provided a majority of the jobs in the area. Chinqua-Penn Plantation, a classic 31,000-square-foot mansion with 27 rooms, drew interested visitors upon its opening in the mid-1920s, and it gave the area a spot on the tourism map.

Then the bottom fell out in the 1990s. Both textiles and tobacco hit the skids, leaving hundreds of Rockingham citizens unemployed. Both the Fieldcrest outlet store in Eden, a longtime favorite of shoppers, and the American Tobacco Co. in Reidsville shut down. And then Chinqua-Penn, a mini-Biltmore House, closed its doors. The county came face-to-face with a serious economic crisis. Currently, the unemployment rate is around 10 percent, which is cause for continued alarm.

“That’s when concerned citizens, battling to find a way to survive, started looking at other ways to make a living,” says Robin Yount, vice president of tourism for the Partnership for Economic and Tourism Development. “Because of our vast natural resources, tourism and outdoor recreation were obvious routes we had to explore.”

Concentrated efforts to expand its travel appeal have centered around the Dan, Mayo and Smith rivers, whose rippling waters traverse the county and provide outstanding venues for canoeing, kayaking, tubing and fishing. “Our initial efforts are to develop recreational opportunities on these rivers and then launch a marketing campaign to attract tourists from far and wide,” Yount explains. “It’s a chance for economic recovery that we need.”

The county has plenty to offer a visitor, beginning with about 91,000 citizens who are anxious to roll out the welcome mat and help you enjoy the many splendors of their friendly, community atmosphere. The largest cities, Eden and Reidsville, each have fewer than 20,000 residents and thus boast a small-town charm. And then there are the smaller towns of Madison, Mayodan, Wentworth and Stoneville, historic villages that reek of history and tradition. Travelers will appreciate the casual, enviable lifestyle in these attractive areas that provide easy access to the rivers.

Throughout the county, there is a plethora of antique stores and interesting shops, hometown restaurants, convenient campgrounds and golf courses. In Eden, there is a Karastan Rug outlet that visitors may tour, and the Miller Brewing Co. The pride of Reidsville is the Penn House, a 12,500-square-foot mansion on 3.5 downtown acres, and “Antique Alley,” a collection of nearly 20 stores housing priceless artifacts.

What’s missing in this quiet section of the state — known as North Carolina’s “north star” — are tourist traps, honkytonks and flashing neon signs that menace the area’s natural beauty. If Lindley Butler and his hard-working committee are successful, Rockingham County will soon have a 6,000-acre state park that borders the Mayo River for 12 miles from Mayodan north to Anglin Mill Road. “The site is a perfect place for a state park,” says Butler. “The river flows gently by rocky cliffs, dense forests and through wide floodplains. There is an abundance of mountain laurel and wildflowers. There are Class III whitewater rapids in places that will test paddlers to the maximum, and wildlife is plentiful along the shores.”

Butler says that fishing for bass and trout is excellent. For centuries, the Saura Indian tribe made its home along the riverbanks. An equestrian area is in the planning stages, says Yount. “We are very much aware that we need to create more recreational facilities to satisfy a traveling public,” she says, “and we stay in touch with many private interests looking for development opportunities.”

One of the most interesting places in the county is the Fairview Farm bed and breakfast near Reidsville. The stately country inn sits on 17 rolling acres with a majestic view of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the distance. There are only two guest rooms, but the house is a treasure trove of antiques, including a rare collection of more than 75 clocks and a wide variety of music boxes and mechanical musical instruments.

Ask owner John Burton, a retired Methodist minister, or his gracious wife, Peggy, to show you the half-dozen or so classic antique cars in a barn behind the house. There are also old tractors, wagons, sleighs and an authentic country store/gas station filled with memorabilia of a bygone era.

Plan a trip to Rockingham County. And while you are there, enjoy a barbecue sandwich at Fuzzy’s; tour the old courthouse and the Wright Tavern in Wentworth; dine at Howard’s overlooking the Dan between Eden and Reidsville; or play golf at one of six challenging courses. You may want to go there just to attend the numerous year-round festivals, fairs and other entertaining events.

For more information, call 800-316-ROCK or visit
www.ncnorthstar.com.


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