Tar Heel Travels
Linville
Rustic elegance and excellent
cuisine
are everyday staples at the Eseeola Lodge
By Bill F. Hensley
There’s
a fire in the dining room fireplace that is more for atmosphere than
to knock the chill off a cool summer morning. Early risers are sipping
coffee and reading newspapers on the comfortable couches near a lavish
breakfast buffet and making plans for an active day in the North
Carolina high country.
Two middle-aged men exchange information about hiking on the scenic
trails at nearby Grandfather Mountain while a young father reveals
plans for a family whitewater rafting trip on the Nolichucky River. My
plans were to play golf at the adjacent Linville Golf Club, a Donald
Ross classic that dates to 1924.
Mountain lovers have made the Eseeola Lodge in Linville a favorite
getaway for more than a hundred years. The rustic elegance of this
peaceful and charming hostelry has brought solace to four generations
of devoted guests who first discovered the beauty and serenity of the
area in 1892.
Originally called “Chestnut Lodge,” the present inn was built in
1926 as an annex to the original Eseeola Lodge, which made its debut
34 years earlier at a cost of $22,000. That building was destroyed by
fire in 1936, giving rise to Chestnut taking over as the principal
lodge and inheriting the Eseeola name.
Today, the lodge, which was renovated last year, has 24 rooms and a
two-bedroom cottage on the lavish grounds beautified by a winding
creek and wildflower gardens that surround the chestnut paneled
edifice. All the rooms have balconies. Eseeola (an Indian name that
means “cliffy river”) is open from mid-May until the end of
October each year and rates include breakfast and dinner.
Long known for its comfortable, gracious accommodations and excellent
cuisine, Eseeola was awarded four stars by the prestigious Mobil
service in 1986 and has maintained its lofty rating each year since.
There are more than 200 employees to look after the seasonal guests,
including two dozen fresh-faced college students who work in the
dining room.
An especially popular occasion at the lodge is the weekly seafood
buffet each Thursday. During a July dinner, 360 people showed up to
enjoy a sumptuous meal of fish, crab, shrimp, oysters and other
seafood delicacies at a price of $38 per person plus tax and gratuity.
“Working with the young folks is one of the best parts of my job,”
says John Blackburn, 50, who has been general manager of the lodge and
president of Linville Resorts for the past 19 years. “And the next
best is having the opportunity to meet so many interesting guests.”
A native of Avery County, Blackburn practically grew up at Eseeola,
having served as a desk clerk as a college student. Both his
grandmother and mother worked at the old lodge as housekeepers. In
addition to his hotel duties, Blackburn directs real estate
activities, oversees the renting of 30 village cottages, and is in
charge of the golf course that is adjacent to the lodge.
Golf was first played in Linville in the summer of 1887 when guests
found the spacious fields nearby ideal for testing their driving
skills. By the turn of the century, nine holes had been laid out. Soon
four more holes were added, and a golf professional was hired to give
lessons. The caddy fee was 15 cents for nine holes.
In 1924, Linville Resorts hired Donald Ross, the famed Scottish
architect who was living in Pinehurst, to design 18 holes in the
valley along the Linville River. It took Ross only two days to design
the course, but the construction required more than two years. Using
mule teams to drag and shape the fairways, Ross’ design followed the
natural rolling terrain of the picturesque valley.
The course has changed little in the past 74 years but will undergo a
$1.3 million facelift at the end of this season that will include a
sprinkler system, cart path relocations, and a reshaping of bunkers. A
private club with 300 members, the course is open to Eseeola guests.
Linville was ranked as the No. 7 course in North Carolina in the
annual ratings by the golf panel of this publication.
Other lodge amenities include a heated outdoor swimming pool, eight
tennis courts, a croquet court, a fitness center and a comprehensive
recreational program for children.
A stay at Eseeola reveals the good side of life. It’s unhurried,
relaxing and friendly. It’s a place where carefree, casual days
involve outdoor sports, and where the evening’s social activities
include excellent food, drink and fellowship in a more formal
atmosphere.
For more information, call 800-742-6717 or visit www.eseeola.com.
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