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Mountain Majesty
Fall's fantastic foliage is
everywhere, but only our expert
knows the high country's best places to eat, sleep, golf and shop
By Bill F. Hensley
October
is a special time in North Carolina. Cool days and crisp nights are a
welcome relief from hot, humid days; afternoon shadows cast a long,
peaceful reminder that fall is coming into its glory; and the leaves
of a million trees start turning into brilliant shades of red and
gold.
The fall color parade in the high country begins early in the month
and usually peaks a couple of weeks later, then slowly spreads to the
rest of the state so that all Tar Heel residents may enjoy Mother
Nature’s awesome display.
That makes October an excellent time for travel, from the mountains to
the coast, when T-shirts and shorts give way to sweaters and slacks,
and long lines at restaurants and attractions are reduced to
manageable sizes.
But be forewarned, however. October is the busiest month of the year
along the Blue Ridge Parkway, especially on weekends, when
“leaf-peepers” flock to the state en masse to absorb the immense
beauty of our towering peaks and lush valleys, resplendent in
spectacular arrays of blazing color. It’s a sight to behold and long
remember.
Each year nostalgia and a strong urge to return to my roots stir
inside, and I begin thinking of an October odyssey to the mountains,
traveling the entire length of the many ranges: the Great Smokies, the
Blue Ridge, the Black and the Snowbird, and — although I have
visited the places many times — taking in the sights as well as the
many pleasures along the way. As always, sightseeing, unique
accommodations, good food, wholesome entertainment and, of course,
golf are high on my priority list.
 Venturing
Off the Beaten Path
My trip would begin in Lake Lure and work its way to the Roaring Gap
area, wandering off the Parkway and major highways to the scenic side
roads so I could enjoy the many delightful off-the-beaten-path places
that are little known. For this leisurely excursion, time is not a
problem, and I’ll stay as long as possible before moving on.
In Lake Lure, the lure is the lake, two fine golf courses — Apple
Valley and Bald Mountain — and nearby Chimney Rock, one of North
Carolina’s oldest travel attractions where panoramic views from the
top stretch to 75 miles or more. Hiking trails traverse the mountain,
along the Rocky Broad River, and in Hickory Nut Gorge, offering
unforgettable vistas. When nightfall comes I’ll bed down at the
historic Esmeralda Inn, where accommodations and food are outstanding.
Moving west, the next stops are in the “Apple Country” towns of
Brevard, Hendersonville and Flat Rock. This is the site of Carl
Sandburg’s farm and home, Connemara, where the poet/author lived his
last days. Unfortunately, the famed Flat Rock Playhouse and the
Brevard Music Center, two entertainment meccas, aren’t open in the
fall, but such fine inns as Woodfield in Flat Rock, Waverly in
Hendersonville and the Inn at Brevard are open year-round.
Next comes the spectacular “waterfall country” surrounding the
Cashiers and Highlands areas, two charming mountain towns. This lovely
but little-known part of our state is a place to enjoy for weeks, not
days, because of an infinite variety of things to see and do.
On the first day, I’ll hike the Horsepasture River (featuring
Bust-Your-Butt Falls) and Whiteside Mountain; see the many waterfalls
in the two counties; stay at the Greystone Inn on Lake Toxaway, High
Hampton or Millstone Inn in Cashiers, or the Old Edwards Inn in
Highlands; play golf at one of the more than a dozen challenging local
courses; shop for antiques; and dine in such pleasurable restaurants
as the Market Basket, Micah’s and The White Goose. I know, that’s
too much for one day so I’ll stay two.
En route to the far west, there’s a stop in Franklin in the
Nantahala National Forest to pan for gems, go tubing on the Little
Tennessee River, and enjoy this popular retirement/second-home haven.
The hub of the west is Murphy, a small, attractive town that is closer
to the capital of seven other states than it is to Raleigh. Be advised
that watersports and hunting rule the roost in this land of massive
lakes, which include Chatuge, Hiawassee, Santeelah and Nantahala.
In nearby Brasstown, the John C. Campbell Folk School is one of the
nation’s oldest centers for learning arts and crafts in unusual
classroom settings. Interested learners from around the nation flock
here throughout the year to master a variety of skills while taking in
a casual lifestyle in majestic surroundings.
Robbinsville comes next. For a few carefree days, I’ll fish or boat
at Fontana Lake, hike and relax in the peaceful elegance of Joyce
Kilmer Memorial Forest, drive along the mountain ridges on the
Cherohala Skyway, and enjoy the rustic atmosphere at the Snowbird
Lodge that is located in the midst of these heavily-forested hills.
Checking in at the Fryemont Inn in Bryson City, my excitement comes
from a thrilling whitewater raft excursion on the rushing Nantahala
River, while leisure comes from a scenic steam train ride along the
river from Bryson City to Dillsboro on the Great Smoky Railway.
A highlight of the trip is a country-style luncheon at the Jarrett
House in Dillsboro, where I gorge myself with fried chicken, ham,
biscuits, gravy and assorted fresh vegetables, leaving no room for the
tempting desserts that are offered.
From
the Casino to Cataloochee
It takes just a few miles from there to get to Cherokee, the historic
Indian reservation that houses several interesting museums, the
Oconaluftee Indian Village, Qualla Arts Center and the un-Indian-like
Harrah’s Casino. The casino likens itself to be the largest
attraction in North Carolina — an estimated four million visitors
annually come to test their gaming skills and enjoy the musical
entertainment that is featured. Outside, hundreds of charter buses
from all over the South are lined up in the spacious parking lot.
Since the large casino was built several years ago, Cherokee has seen
tremendous changes with motels and restaurants being built daily. But
the theme of the village hasn’t changed, and the Indian story is
told each summer in the long-running outdoor drama “Unto These
Hills.” Unfortunately, the drama has closed for the fall, but
thankfully, the beautiful colors are a nice tradeoff.
I first discovered Cataloochee Ranch, situated on Fie Top Mountain a
mile above Maggie Valley, in 1965 and have been a frequent visitor
since. This is my “get away from the world” destination where
comfortable log cabins, sumptuous family-style meals, horseback riding
on lofty, winding trails and quiet afternoon naps are my delights.
Time spent here is meaningful and memorable.
If I ventured off the mountain, it’d be to Waynesville to play golf
at the Waynesville Country Club or to Canton to play at Springdale.
But mainly, I just roam the streets of the laid-back Haywood County
town that hosts “Folkmoot,” an international dance festival, each
summer, or journey to a deserted Cataloochee Valley to try and sneak
up on an elk or two that found a new home here earlier in the year.
Asheville, my boyhood home, is the center of the mountains. Known as
the “land of the sky,” the city has been a travel destination for
more than a hundred years with such attractions as the Biltmore House,
the Grove Park Inn, the Blue Ridge Parkway, a major folk art center,
the French Broad River, the Thomas Wolfe home, Riverside cemetery and
a number of attractive bed and breakfast inns, including Richmond
Hill.
Of course there’s golf, sightseeing, fine restaurants and a number
of fascinating shops and boutiques. New this year is the posh Inn at
Biltmore, a 213-room luxury hotel on the Biltmore Estate, and a $40
million spa at the Grove Park Inn.
From here, the route turns north toward Burnsville and dinner — or
breakfast — at the NuWray Inn, where country cooking has attracted
hungry travelers for a century. Nearby is Mount Mitchell, at 6,684
feet the highest peak east of the Mississippi River. Although hit hard
by the devastating effects of acid rain, the mountain still looms as a
beautiful site to view the awesome countryside that lies in the
distance.
The Mount Mitchell golf course must be experienced when you are in
this part of the state. Located alongside a swift-flowing stream at
the foot of the mountain, it offers great scenery, rolling terrain and
unique holes that test skills to the maximum. It’s a jewel to be
savored.
In the vicinity and well worth a visit are the Penland School of
Crafts, Bakersville, Roan Mountain and Spruce Pine, where mountain
living is typified by friendly, hospitable natives who enjoy sharing
their many splendors with outsiders.
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