Tar Heel Travels



Scotland
Everything's more expensive on the 'auld sod' but the golf's still great

By Bill F. Hensley


My first tee shot was across a corner of the Atlantic Ocean, a carry of about 150 yards. Not wanting to cut off more than I could handle, I aimed too far right, and the ball went through the fairway and into the tall, thick rough that bordered the hole, lost forever unless an eagle-eyed caddie could find it in such dire surroundings. I had just violated rule No. 1: Don’t hit it out of the fairway.

Welcome to Scotland!

This was the start of a memorable golf journey to the “auld sod,” the land of kilts and bagpipes. It was an eight-day trip that would carry me around the country by a luxury ship, traveling by night and playing some of the world’s best-known courses by day. Stops were at Macrihanish, Prestwick, Royal Dornoch, Cruden Bay, the Old Course in St. Andrews, and Kingsbarns, a new course that has golfers around the world singing its praises.

Though I had played golf in Scotland on a previous trip, all these courses were new to me, and I was as excited as a schoolboy at recess. Playing two of the courses — Royal Dornoch and the Old Course — was a lifetime dream that, weather permitting, would be fulfilled. From experience I knew what to expect of courses in this birthplace of golf where the game’s history goes back nearly 600 years.

There would be eight rounds in nine days, and I planned to walk, pulling a “trolley,” or take a caddie. Golf carts, the transportation created and depended upon by most Americans, was not an option since “buggies,” as the Scots call them, are as rare as a bright, sunny day in this oft-cloudy environment. The most fun, of course, is to have a caddie to show you the course routing, the intended line of play, advise on club selection, and point out the subtleties of the massive, undulating greens. And a caddie’s honest wit can be a joy. “Can I get there with a five-iron?” I asked. “Eventually,” he answered

I knew, too, that links courses were not like the courses at home. Here they wander through tall, sandy dunes that often create blind shots; fairways that are hard, fast, unmanicured, and wildly uneven at times, having never seen a bulldozer. There would be forced carries over wicked rough, waist-high grass, heather and prickly gorse. I expected wind and rain in this volatile setting and treacherous pot bunkers that must be avoided.

My observations were realistic, not negative, and the courses were all I hoped they would be. Machrihanish and its penal rough was a good place to start. Thought not as known as the others, it was an interesting test that reminded me to “keep it in play.” From there we sailed across the bay to Ayr, the home of Prestwick, built in 1851 and the site of numerous British Open championships. A strong wind played havoc with shots but, at my back, it enabled me to drive a short, 250-yard par four, a rarity for a hacker of limited ability.

Royal Dornoch, the birthplace of famed architect Donald Ross, was a classic and beautiful layout with majestic views; Cruden Bay, a bit off the beaten path, was an enjoyable surprise. When we reached St. Andrews, I was ecstatic, even though a gray, overcast sky was threatening. But the sun peeked through occasionally, and my visit to this golf Mecca was not hampered by rain or wind.

There were 76 of us on this trip created and conducted by PerryGolf of Atlanta and Helenburgh, Scotland, a first-rate tour operator that specializes in golf journeys to Scotland, Ireland and Spain. To my surprise, a third of the group was from Scotland and were enthusiastic natives anxious to learn what their country had to offer. For the 20 or so non-golfers, there were daily sightseeing trips.

My wife, Carol, and I began our two-week jaunt with a long weekend in London. We enjoyed a stay at the posh Dorchester Hotel, one of the world’s great hotels. We shopped at Harrod’s, strolled through Hyde and Green parks, rode a double-decker sightseeing bus, walked down Piccadilly to Soho and Trafalgar Square, and frequented favorite pubs such as the Red Lion and the Grenadier.

At the end of the cruise, we opted for two days in the charming, historic town of St. Andrews where there are more than 20 courses, staying at St. Andrews Bay, a new resort four miles from the village.

For all its splendors, there are few bargains these days in Scotland. Green fees have escalated ($140 at the Old Course, $200 at Kingsbarns), caddie fees are up, ranging from $35 to $70, and meals — even in pubs — have increased. The cruise on the Adventure Clipper, an eight-day delight, is approximately $6,000 per person but includes everything — golf, meals and on-ship tips.

For more information, contact PerryGolf at 800-344-5257 or St. Andrews Bay (part of the Chateau Elan chain of resorts of Atlanta) at www.chateauelan.com.