Tar Heel Travels


Jackson County
Ride the steam train or raft 'The Tuck' in an uncluttered mountain paradise


By Bill F. Hensley

The scenic, winding road from Cashiers to Dillsboro may not be the beaten path for North Carolinians on vacation, but it’s a familiar, exciting route for knowledgeable travelers from other parts of the South who find Jackson County a paradise that is made to order for a fun-filled yet relaxing visit.

Tucked away in the majestic mountains in the southwest corner of our state, the county covers 491 square miles of the most fabulous scenery imaginable. This a land of rugged, rocky peaks; cool, clear lakes and swift-flowing streams; incomparable hiking trails; fly fishing at its best; cascading waterfalls; and picturesque towns.

It’s a gorgeous land that stands tall and overlooks quiet valleys and sloping forests. Its natural wonders include the Nantahala National Forest, the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and the Tuckasegee River.

Yet this spectacular setting, a favorite travel destination, is little known to Tar Heel residents. North Carolina ranks third in visitor statistics behind Florida and Georgia, and South Carolina, Tennessee and Alabama loom closely behind. “Why we don’t attract more of our own folks is something we have never understood,” offers Sue Bumgarner, director of the Cashiers Chamber of Commerce. “Maybe it’s because the northwest mountains are closer to the major cities of our state. Admittedly, we are convenient to Atlanta, Greenville, Columbia, Chattanooga and a few other Southern cities, and those places don’t have mountains.”

What North Carolinians are missing in this off-the-beaten-path gem is a destination that offers something for everyone. For starters, there is sightseeing, hiking, biking, golf, fishing, water sports, rock climbing, whitewater rafting, boating and camping. And for the less active, there are small, friendly towns to explore, shops for browsing, and dozens of interesting restaurants and country inns. What’s missing, thankfully, is a circus-like atmosphere of honky tonk, two-bit attractions.

Both children and parents alike enjoy the old-fashioned steam train ride on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad from Dillsboro to Bryson City, a leisurely journey along the shady banks of the Tuckaseegee River. The evening gourmet dinner trains, with a variety of entertainment, are especially popular. Before the ride, browse through Dillsboro, a pretty mountain village that is enjoyable and relaxing. And if country cooking is your passion, don’t miss a meal at the historic Jarrett House, where fried chicken and a tasty assortment of Southern cuisine is offered daily.

At the other end of the line, train riders have several hours to stroll through Bryson City and take in the scenery and the shops in this quaint town. “In essence, we’re like a beautiful outdoor amusement park,” says Julie Spiro of the Jackson County Travel and Tourism Authority. “There is a lot to see and do, especially for outdoor adventurers.”

One of Jackson County’s most revered assets is a calmness and sense of tranquility that slows the pace and soothes the nerves. “There is an easy-going charm about our county and our people,” explains Spiro. “At times it’s almost like things come to a standstill, and that makes for a peaceful, stress-free visit.”

Sylva, with its unique courthouse that sits proudly above the city, is the capital seat but sees fewer tourists than Cashiers, to the south; Dillsboro, to the west; or Balsam, to the east. Neighboring Cullowhee is the home of bustling Western Carolina University.

Cashiers, in the heart of “Waterfall Country,” has been a travel Mecca for decades thanks, in part, to the venerable High Hampton Inn and a number of fine inns and restaurants. Now the town has become even more attractive to golfers with courses at High Hampton, Trillium, Highlands Cove and Sapphire Mountain. The nationally renowned Wade Hampton Club, a private course, is just a par 5 or two from the small, picturesque town. A new course is planned for the Balsam area, just off the Blue Ridge Parkway, where the historic Balsam Inn has served clients since the turn of the century.

Since the movie “Deliverance” was filmed nearby a decade ago, whitewater rafting on a 40-mile stretch of the Tuckasegee River has been a favorite pastime for thrill-seeking travelers. Fly fishing for trout on “The Tuck” is the best in the state, according to those who know. Waterskiing and boating are available on Bear Lake, near Cullowhee, and Lake Glenville, near Cashiers.

There are excellent and varied accommodations, including rental cabins, in Jackson County. The new Best Western Inn in Dillsboro, with balconies overlooking the river, opened recently. Fine dining is an area tradition with a number of outstanding restaurants that are sprinkled throughout.

Do yourself a favor: Hike Whiteside Mountain or Chimney Top, spend the night at the Millstone Inn, see Whitewater and Silver Run falls, play golf, climb the 107 steps that lead to the courthouse in Sylva, gorge yourself on country ham and biscuits at the Jarrett House or enjoy a leisurely meal at Lulu’s in Sylva, and marvel at the breathtaking view from dozens of lofty mountain tops from the Parkway. This is Jackson County, and it’s to be enjoyed and treasured.

For further information, call 800-962-1911 or visit www.mountainlovers.com. 

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