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Tar Heel Travels

Best Places to Eat, Sleep
Pick from our list when you're traveling this holiday season

By Bill F. Hensley
Below: Asheville's culinary lights include the Grove Park Inn and the Inn on Biltmore
At least once or twice a week, I’m asked about my favorite places to stay in North Carolina. A second question, which follows quickly, is about the restaurants I enjoy and would recommend.

Both are routine questions for a travel writing man who moves around the state frequently, has laid his head on pillows in about every Tar Heel county, and has tucked a napkin under his chin in more restaurants than he can remember during a lifetime on the road.

Actually, I have lots of favorite inns and restaurants , and I am pleased to share them with friends and readers of this publication. My choices are based on such obvious factors as outstanding facilities, fine cuisine, comfortable accommodations, good service and genuine hospitality, qualities that cannot be overlooked in selecting places that you go back to often and anxiously await each visit. All are in a class by themselves in my book.

Over the years, the places where I stay and eat have come to know me. In a sense, I’m kinda like family. They call me by name upon arrival or, if they don’t remember my name, acknowledge that they have seen me before and are glad to have me back. Believe me, a warm welcome and acts of friendliness are important to frequent travelers.

Since I was born in the mountains, let’s start in my home territory. Seven places will always be like a second home to me. They are Cataloochee Ranch near Maggie Valley; The Swag, just a stone’s throw away in Haywood County; the Greystone Inn on Lake Toxaway; the Grove Park Inn in Asheville; Eseeola Lodge in Linville; and the Inn on Biltmore in Asheville. All meet the requirements for quality and friendliness that I have come to appreciate and expect.

Other hill country places with a casual, homey atmosphere that I enjoy are the Millstone Inn and High Hampton in Cashiers, and Pine Crest Inn in Tryon.

Evidently, the top guide books and rating service agree with me, because these are the places they feature in their prestigious listings.

It’s the same in the Piedmont where my stomping grounds are the Carolina Hotel and the Holly Inn in Pinehurst; Pine Needles and Mid Pines in Southern Pines; the Fearrington House in Pittsboro; the Ballantyne Resort in Charlotte and the Grandover Resort in Greensboro.

Again, these are top-rated hostelries that reached a lofty status with me and others, offering a wide range of facilities from golf to spas, plush lodging to gourmet dining, homespun hospitality to dependable service.

On the ocean, the Sanderling Inn in Duck is renowned as the class of the coast. Other special places to me are the First Colony in Nags Head, Sea Trail resort at Sunset Beach, and the Lords’ Proprietors in Edenton, distinctive establishments with all of the essential qualities.

There are other well-known inns with reputations for greatness that I have not had a chance to be a guest. Included in this group are the Richmond Hill in Asheville, Siena in Chapel Hill, The Park Hotel in Charlotte, and Theodosia’s, a bed and breakfast on Bald Head Island.

If I make a beeline for the places I have mentioned when my travels call for an overnight stay, be advised that there are numerous restaurants in the state with an appeal to my culinary instincts, although it should be pointed out that I usually take most meals where I stay.

Believe me, mention the word “barbecue,” and you have my full and immediate attention. The handiest place I pig out is at Bill Spoon’s in Charlotte, since I live in the Queen City. But name any barbecue restaurant in Lexington, Rocky Mount, Kinston or Goldsboro—or anywhere Down East— and I’m ready to go. In the past year, I have discovered that the Smithfield chain, which has restaurants scattered around the state, has excellent ‘cue that you must try.

For fine dining, four places—the Palm in Charlotte, 1894 at the Holly Inn in Pinehurst, the Angus Barn in Raleigh, and the Mad Boar in Wallace—are memorable and well worth an out-of-the-way trip to sample the house specialties.

Sadly, many of my favorite all-you-can-eat, country cooking establishments are no longer in existence. Since I was a child, I went to the Nu-Wray Inn in Burnsville for its sumptuous, old fashioned family-styled meals. Though the hotel and restaurant still exist, it has discontinued its legendary dinner spread.

 That means that I head to the Jarrett House in Dillsboro, or to Shatley Springs near West Jefferson, both in the mountains, for my traditional Southern cuisine of platter-served fried chicken, biscuits, gravy and fresh vegetables on the dinner menu, and a breakfast of eggs, country ham, sausage, grits and biscuits. I don’t get to either often enough, unfortunately, but my waistline is not complaining.

Over the years, I have enjoyed such unique places as the 42nd Street Oyster Bar in Raleigh, the Sanitary Fish Market in Morehead City, the Dockside and Ella’s in Calabash, the Market Basket in Cashiers, the Louisiana Purchase and Morels in Banner Elk, Jackalope’s on Beech Mountain, Elijah’s on the wharf in Wilmington, the JFR Barn in Southern Pines, and Crippen’s, Twigs and the Best Cellar, in Blowing Rock. All were memorable and help maintain a Tar Heel tradition for excellence.

The next time you’re looking for a good place to spend the night or have a meal—from the mountains to the coast— try one of my favorites. They are special to me, and I think you will like what you discover.

And tell them I sent you.


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